A Native Information to Lecce, Italy: Baroque Magnificence and Rural Delicacies | Holidays in Italy


Lecce is famend for its kitchen poor – actually means “poor delicacies”, however refers back to the tasty dwelling cooking of peasant households who improve seasonal and native merchandise. We’re fortunate to have fantastic contemporary greens – so eating out is usually a vegetarian’s paradise – together with seafood straight from the Ionian Sea. For an sincere trattoria expertise, you may’t beat Alle due Corti, the place Mrs. Rosalba cooks unforgettable dishes resembling ciceri and tria‘, crispy fried noodles with chickpeas, eggplant meatballsfried eggplant meatballs with mint and basil, a hearty bean soup with chicory and the native favourite, orecchiette with cimand rapa – “ears” of pasta with turnip tops and anchovies.

For a up to date tackle conventional recipes, strive Arte dei Sapori – think about a complete sea bass cooked in clay – whereas the romantic backyard of La Scarpetta is the right place to strive spaghetti topped with creamy sea urchin. Top off on native specialties on the Porta Rudiae coated market – it is nice for caciocavallo cheese, spicy sausage And taralli Biscuits.


Everybody talks about Should, our new avant-garde artwork middle, however I discover the previous Sigismondo Castromediano Museum inspiring. It’s devoted to the archeology of Lecce, which dates again to the interval of Magna Graecia (Greek colonial), from the eighth to the fifth century BC. It’s all the time peaceable and quiet, hardly ever visited by vacationers.

I really like Caffè Alvino, the place I usually meet different winemakers. It’s situated in entrance of the previous Bar della Borsa, the “wine bag” bar (now sadly changed by a McDonald’s), so referred to as as a result of each week the winemakers met there to determine the value of the majority wine that Puglia exported all through Europe . My Pope he took me. Today the area produces high quality bottled wine relatively than bulk, so discussions are actually extra about local weather change and natural vineyards.


The historic middle is not precisely divided into neighborhoods, and to actually expertise town that is the place it is advisable to focus. Discover on foot the small space surrounded by the gates of our metropolis, beginning with the 500-year-old Porta Napoli. You stroll via time, from the ruins of the Roman amphitheater, alongside the alleys lined with Baroque palaces and palaces, and emerge in entrance of the Basilica of Santa Croce, whose facade took a century to sculpt. Then there’s the breathtaking Piazza Duomo, dominated by its Seventeenth-century cathedral, or the seemingly quiet Piazza Sant’Oronzo, in honor of Lecce’s patron saint. That is the actual middle of town. It comes alive from 24 to 26 August, when Sant’Oronzo is well known with a pageant of lights, music and avenue meals that no place ever will get misplaced.

Sant'Oronzo square.
Sant’Oronzo sq.. {Photograph}: Salvator Barki / Getty Photos

Inexperienced area

Amongst its dense mass of Baroque buildings, Lecce has three central inexperienced areas: the plush gardens and tropical yuccas, cacti and palm bushes of the Royal Villa; the huge Belloluogo Park, lately renovated and ideal for out of doors sports activities; and the formal gardens of Giuseppe Garibaldi, with their historic sculptures and fountains. Do not miss the Pasticceria Natale, simply outdoors the Garibaldi gardens: it is the right place to strive pasticciotto Leccesea shortcrust pastry stuffed with ricotta or egg custard, with Salento espresso, an iced espresso with almond milk. For an awesome bike experience out of city, head east to San Cataldo on the Adriatic. The route takes you amongst splendid eighteenth-century villas that had been as soon as summer season residences of the Lecce the Aristocracy.


Lecce appears quiet by day however comes alive at night time, with squares and courtyards stuffed with restaurant and bar terraces. Between Piazzetta Santa Chiara and Piazzetta Sigismondo Castromediano avenue meals, craft beer and cocktails, whereas at Mamma Elvira there are 250 native wines on the checklist: from glowing and rosé wines to extra complicated negroamaro and primitivo reds.

To stay

Palazzo Rollo (double from € 110 B&B) is in a Baroque palace with a roof backyard, proper subsequent to the cathedral.

Massimiliano Apollonio is a fifth era winemaker to 150– one yr previous Apollonio cellar. His household give a award in Lecce yearly to the artists who promote the Apulian tradition

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