It is no secret that the $ 81 billion international magnificence trade has a unclean aspect, as proven within the latest HBO Max documentary “Not So Fairly.” The pores and skin is the biggest organ in our physique, and what occurs in it impacts our well being simply as a lot because the meals, dietary supplements and medicines we ingest.
However in contrast to meals and medicines, the FDA gives minimal oversight on cosmetics, banning using simply 11 components out of the roughly 1,400 prohibited in Europe. In 2019, a stricter legislation on cosmetics and private care merchandise was launched in Congress, but it surely didn’t transfer ahead.
The patron has little steerage when buying magnificence merchandise. In contrast to meals, the place we discovered to buy within the perimeter aisles of the grocery retailer and search for natural meals labels, purchasing magnificence is a complicated jumble of components that solely a chemist can perceive.
For the uninitiated, the selection of a secure, clear and pure magnificence product primarily relies on the issues that aren’t contained, versus what it’s. Sephora and Ulta have a listing of round 50 banned components from their clear magnificence choices, whereas Magnificence Counter’s “By no means Checklist” contains 1,800 components.
“It is rather complicated as a result of there is no such thing as a regulation on what’s pure and what’s not,” mentioned Larissa Jensen, vp of magnificence at The NPD Group.
“Principally, if you discuss ‘clear magnificence’ it implies that it lacks sure components. Once we have a look at manufacturers, we separate them for “pure” and “scientific”. In status magnificence, ‘pure’ was a very powerful class for some time, then in 2020 it switched to ‘scientific’ manufacturers and stays primary right now, “he continued.
It has created a dichotomy between nature or science for the wonder shopper as a result of, as a lot as “pure” magnificence could seem, it might not be the best.
“If you wish to affect the actual change in your pores and skin, you’ll have to use chemical compounds,” admitted Dana Wooden, a veteran of the wonder trade, after working for L’Oréal and lined in magnificence for WWD, Condé Nast and now reporting in independently. “Many pure magnificence manufacturers sound like there’s a bunch of twigs, berries and flowers floating within the merchandise. Who desires that?”
Placing extra good issues into magnificence formulations, together with pure components with names acknowledged by individuals but additionally assembly rigorous scientific requirements, is the mission of chemical engineer Lena Phillippou Korres, co-founder and chief innovation officer of KORRES Pure Merchandise primarily based in Greece.
The corporate drew inspiration from historical science, homeopathic drugs and bioculture to develop the six-step KORRES Full Circle course of that extracts essentially the most potent components from nature and formulates them into trendy magnificence merchandise. In the meantime, the corporate helps defend and assist Greece’s distinctive agricultural flora and neighborhood and responsibly recycle product packaging.
Via his analysis work, Korres has recognized the 9 most potent pure components in Greece that work in magnificence: Greek yogurt, spice rosehip, pomegranate, black pine, white pine, golden krocus, Olympian tea, Greek olive and grape. of Santorini. She takes them to her lab the place she and her workforce formulate them into merchandise that supply a scientifically confirmed efficiency benefit.
“When formulating with pure components, it is ten occasions tougher than when formulating with chemical compounds,” explains Korres. “The chemical compounds are predictable and secure whereas the pure components are alive. They rely upon the climate, the solar and the entire setting and are extremely interactive with one another. We perceive this and convey our deep data and respect for nature and people components into our merchandise ”.
KORRES started when Giorgos Korres started working in Greece’s oldest homeopathic natural pharmacy whereas finding out at Athens College College of Pharmacy. He took over the pharmacy in 1992 and launched KORRES Pure Merchandise along with his then spouse Lena in 1996. Now not married, they nonetheless contemplate themselves a household.
“Homeopathic drugs was born in historical Greece. The precept of homeopathy isn’t just about treating signs, however about treating the underlying explanation for a illness, “shared Korres.
In contrast to trendy pharmacology, which may weaken the pure immune system, homeopathy works in another way. “The precept of homeopathy is to assist the physique and construct the immune system with pure components,” he continues.
In relation to pure components, the home of KORRES in Greece affords a plethora to select from. “Greece is a paradise of biodiversity attributable to our local weather, our soil, the abundance of sunshine and the number of landscapes from the ocean to the mountains. Its nice selection produces a few of the most potent pure components on the planet, “she mentioned.
For instance, Santorini grape, one of many oldest grape varieties on the earth, is simply grown in Crete and is a key ingredient in a brand new line of KORRES skincare merchandise. The Santorini grape is so strong that it grows virtually with out pressure and is especially watered by the ocean mist that rises from the ocean at night time.
“Seawater is filled with minerals, a thousand occasions higher than any water we may give it. Because of the excessive circumstances by which it grows, Santorini grapes are tremendous loaded with polyphenols, antioxidants and minerals. And we use the byproduct of the winemaking course of to formulate our line, “she mentioned.
KORRES operates 13 shops in Europe and three in Asia, and till lately it was solely obtainable in the USA via its web site and in choose shops, most notably Sephora and Ulta. Nevertheless, it has simply opened a retailer in New York’s Nolita neighborhood to share its historical past and the Greek origins of merchandise extra broadly within the US market. The shop additionally has a mini recycling lab the place clients can return empty packages for processing.
“Telling the story of our model, our phenomenal components and product high quality is so essential as a result of customers need assistance getting satisfying data on ‘pure magnificence’. The one navigation they actually have is belief in your model, ”Korres mentioned.
To this finish, the corporate is vertically built-in and concerned from begin to end in the entire course of. “We work with greater than a thousand farming households who develop our natural components,” she defined.
“So we all know the place they arrive from, how they’re grown and harvested, so we carry these pure components into our lab to extract the lively molecules from contained in the vegetation to verify they keep lively and are not killed within the course of.
“From there we formulate the merchandise, bundle them sustainably after which recycle them. I consider this whole and complete course of is essential to constructing belief with our clients, “she concluded.